The rue de Turenne in the Marais is one of those streets built in the exact direction the wind blows. On a freezing evening in January with every wholesale fashion warehouse steel-shuttered and every high-tone shoe shop window barred there's no refuge from the gusts that bowl right along its length. About halfway down, I was so grateful to find the Café des Musées open on a sunday night.
Despite being right by the Picasso museum in too-cool Marais, this Belle Epoque café, smartly restored by Pierre Lecoutre, owner of the Dôme du Marais, is determined to remain untouched by its location. Sit amongst (ok, rub up against - the dining room is long and narrow as a railway carriage) the predominantly French diners, for the best ‘hand-cut’ steak tartare in Paris, ‘artisanal’ (?!?) frites and raspberry Dacquoise (raspberry meringue cake).
Café des Musées
49, rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 72 96 17. Fixed- price menu: 21 Euros; à la carte: around 30 Euros for three courses
You have a wonderful way of describing things. It feels as if I am there. I'd love to visit.
Posted by: SDG | January 08, 2010 at 05:17 AM
Now I really don't want to make an irritating, nit-picking comment, but I think my fastidiousness is important here! The Rue de Turenne runs almost exactly North-South, meaning that exceptionally in this freezing January with winds coming from the Arctic, it will feel exceptionally cold. However, winds in this part of Europe generally go West->East (which is why the posher parts of Paris and London are in the West) meaning that this restaurant would normally be protected!
Posted by: Adam | January 08, 2010 at 02:20 PM
An anomaly, perhaps, but there it is: for this particular Paris street, it feels like the wind specially turns a corner. Maybe it's just the effect of coming out of the Marais maze into a wider and more open avenue.
Posted by: badaude | January 08, 2010 at 03:03 PM
It looks beautiful and cozy. Will definitely have to check it out.
Posted by: Iheartfashion | January 08, 2010 at 05:34 PM
It's strange how there seem to be microcosms of coldness. Basingstoke station in the South of England is officially the world's coldest place, even on a sunny day.
Posted by: Adam | January 08, 2010 at 06:13 PM
The best tartar is at Les Fines Gueules
Posted by: adrian | January 10, 2010 at 10:03 PM
Thanks for your expert recomendation. But then I'll eat just about any tartare including the kind that look like supermarket mince.
Posted by: badaude | January 10, 2010 at 10:30 PM
Are you in the 3rd? We are moving there soon. Our family has a place on rue de Turenne just a few blocks away. I was wondering if you have anymore recommendations in the area? Thanks!
Posted by: MovingtoParis | January 13, 2010 at 04:27 PM
I like to drink at Au Petit Fer a Cheval and La Belle Hortense (http://tinyurl.com/ya685bt). I always wanted to eat at Robert et Louise (http://tinyurl.com/ylbftre) but have never got round to it - I have good reports from friends. I like Baracane (http://tinyurl.com/yzjbrqg) and Bofinger (http://www.bofingerparis.com), which is a fantastic Belle Epoque experience, especially upstairs. I once got my hair dyed at Nature (right by Bofinger (http://tinyurl.com/yfg8zhb) though I'm not sure that experience was all good. I just went into concept store, Merci, for the first time (http://www.merci-merci.com/) - terrifyingly beautiful, appallingly fashionable and possibly the only place in the entire World you can still find a pair of those Isabel Marant studded ankle boots - but their cafe in the bookshop is both good, lovely to sit in (so long as you keep away from the door in this weather) and suprisingly reasonably priced.
Posted by: badaude | January 13, 2010 at 08:26 PM
I can confirm that "Robert et Louise" is an experience not to be missed.
Posted by: Expat Stu | January 14, 2010 at 04:12 PM
....notwithstanding the fact that one of them -- Robert, I think -- has been dead a couple of years now.
Posted by: Expat Stu | January 15, 2010 at 12:02 AM
What kind of 'experience'?
Posted by: badaude | January 15, 2010 at 12:07 AM
Well, the service is "laconic," to put it kindly. They expect you to have a good long chat while waiting to be served. Inter-table conversation is very common -- a plus as far as I'm concerned. In fact, at least one table is "monastery-style."
The meats are grilled over an open fire and are totally MIAM. Not a place for vegetarians. Oh no, not at all. Veggies begone!
Posted by: Expat Stu | January 15, 2010 at 04:43 PM