There are few better ways of spening Sunday morning than at the northernmost tip of Paris at the Marché aux Puces (yes, that means fleas) de Saint Ouen at Clignacourt. Take line 4 from St Germain all the way up to the top. Cross the boulevard Ney under the Périphérique Paris ring-road then keep going straight ahead, ignoring the cheap clothes and jewellery stalls as you approach the market.
You won't find many fleas here any more - or many bargains either. But you might find intricate marble fireplaces from defunct chateaux, stylish art deco leather chairs and entire suits of armour. If you think you could have a little trouble taking some of these home, maybe opt for antique textiles and posters from the rue de Rosiers, one of the many individual covered markets on the site.
The Puces website will give you a good guide round the stalls.
Want to look but not buy? You can also catch the last of the exhibitions for the 4e Mondial de l'Antiquite which run 'til the end of November.
Lunch at le Soleil or one of the many cheap and cheerful bars scattered between the stalls and market halls. I love to go here on frosty mornings and sit and watch the chestnut sellers and the card sharps plying their trade along the avenues of the market.
Open Saturday, Sunday, Monday
Le Soleil, 109 av. Michelet, St-Ouen
tel. 01-40-10-08-08
www.restaurantlesoleil.com
In the heart of the market you also have the restaurant Chez Louisette, a nice old parisian suburb atmosphere, with very often a bloody cheesy singer that you can never stop! As we say in french: "C'est à la bonne franquette!".
Posted by: Emmanuel | October 31, 2009 at 07:49 PM
I was just going to say "try Chez Louisette," but I see someone has beat me to it.
Cheesy perhaps, but I kind of like that mock-Edith Piaf singer. "Non, je ne regrette rien..."
Posted by: Diogenes | November 07, 2009 at 01:42 AM
I must go there next time!
Posted by: badaude | November 07, 2009 at 09:46 AM