Badaude's Paris Address Book - Astier

This is a real ‘nappe aux carreux rouges’ resto. This means a ‘red checked tablecloth’ joint, where the cooking is hearty and the atmosphere more than a little lively. Bang in the middle of one of the coolest streets in 11e, surrounded by hip bars, serving clubbers, tourists, business diners and locals. It's somewhere to take the folks if they want to see all sorts of Paris in one place.

 

The waiters are only averagely stressed for Parisian waiters, which means they're on a knife-edge of caffeine-fuelled tension and the restaurant is busy - so busy that it’s sometimes difficult for your waiter to get through the narrow gaps between the tables to you - which only increases the lively atmosphere. The advice is, book, especially at the weekend.

 

The best starter is the home-cured herrings which appear in a huge terrine for you to help yourself. Mains are traditional and heavy – like rognons (kidneys) in mustard, steaks, and all sorts of dishes that come in cute mini-casseroles.

 

Puddings are also hearty (crème brulee, tarte tatin). Only think about ordering them if you think you can cope with the truly fantastic cheese course that comes between the main course and dessert. The waiter brings a selection of about 20 on a huge basketwork tray. You cut a little, then a little more…

 

The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner which can be a godsend when the rest of Paris closes up on Sunday and Monday nights. Fixed-price menu (4 courses, including cheese): 31 Euros. Fixed-price lunch menus at 14.50, 19.50 and 25.50 Euros.

 

http://www.restaurant-astier.com/

44, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris. Métro: Oberkampf. Watch out for that confusing street layout right outside the metro. Despite having eaten here a good few times, I get lost every time I step outside the metro...