Can't get a room where Oscar Wilde fought his famous last battle with the wallpaper? Why not just go for lunch at the restaurant of L’Hôtel, which gained a Michelin star in March 2008, is one of Paris's foodie bargains and, I've been told, attracts famous regulars such as Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis (who, sadly, couldn't be there the day I visited).
The carte is an light and inventive take on classical French cuisine. and, as it's nearly summer, the menu du jour has a Provencal accent.
As I ordered, I was brought an amuse-bouche of chilled sea-foamy cucumber soup and the restaurant’s own breadsticks made with truffle oil.
This was followed by a tartare of crab, sprinkled with gold leaf and tiny flowers (‘You can eat it all,’ my waiter assured me), then a brique of meltingly soft tuna with girolles (wild mushrooms) cooked to preference (ask for ‘rose’ if you like it a light pink; a point if you like it fully cooked or if, like me, you like sushi, you can order your tuna bleu or uncooked inside). Dessert is a work of art which must be ordered at least 15 minutes in advance. Mine was a delicious medley of strawberries and fraises de bois - mini strawberries that taste of vanilla.
Coffee arrived with a selection of house petits fours; the caramelised cannelles or cinnamon pastries were particularly good: crusty with sugar on the outside an meltingly light within.
Wines and champagnes are available by the glass or half bottle for lone or relatively sober diners. Service is relaxed, friendly but immaculately professional and knowledgeable. After recommending a wine for my main course, my waiter asked me, ‘would you like another glass of rouge with your dessert?’ ‘Well...’ I ‘Just a half-glass, then?’ he suggested, pouring me a small measure which somehow didn’t find its way onto the bill.
Prices are around 28 Euros for a starter, 15 Euros for a dessert and 39 Euros for a main course but don't panic, the 42 Euro 3 course set lunch is a Michelin-starred bargain. It's always popular so book by phone or via the website. It’s particularly lovely in the summer months when you can dine in the courtyard to the soft sound of the fountain. And if that's good enough for Johnny and Vanessa, it's good enough for me.
13, Rue Beaux Arts
75006 Paris, France
+33 1 44 41 99 00
http://www.l-hotel.com/
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